Loom Knitters Circle Magazine

Autumn Skull Cap
by Brenda Myers

Pattern Information

Knitting Loom: Any loom with the pegs measuring 5/8” from center of one peg to the center of the next peg and at least 24 pegs for the short skullcap and 30 pegs for the longer hat. The 24 peg round blue Knifty Knitter was used for the shorter skullcap; the green specialty loom that came with the Reader’s Digest Quick & Easy Loom Knitting Set was used for the longer hat. The latter loom is very similar to the new Knifty Knitter 48-peg Adult Hat Loom.

Yarn: 105 yards of Bulky 5 ply yarn. Moda Dea Tweedle Dee Shaded Effect Yarn in Cinnamon Twist was used in both samples. Each hat required less than one skein of yarn.

Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting tool, scissors, optional embellishments (e.g., decorative buttons, pins, sequins, beads, patches)

Size: Fits a 19” to 22” head. Hat length is 7 inches for the shorter hat (9¼ inches for the longer hat).

Gauge: 7 st and 16 rows = 2 inches

The Autumn skullcap hat, named after a mushroom by the same name, hugs the head without gathers or puckers. This design (also called a tuque, toque, or beanie) is achieved by short row shaping. After being introduced to short row shaping about two years ago, it has been my goal to create a hat on the looms using this technique. The pattern is written for two versions of the basic hat (short & long), which can be dressed up by using various embellishments depending on the season or your mood. Hopefully, this sideways design will be the springboard for many more variations.

Pattern Notes:

• Reference to peg numbers are from left to right with peg one being the first peg to the right of the anchor peg.
• Adapting for size: Both hats are knitted as six short row flat panel wedges. Each wedge is around 3½ inches (more or less) at the brim edge, which results in a completed hat approximately 21 inches in diameter. The hat size can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number wedges. For example, a five wedge hat would be almost 17 inches in diameter and a seven wedge hat would be a little more than 24 inches in diameter.
• Directions are written for the shorter hat with the longer hat directions in ().
• W&T is worked as follows: Knit up to the peg that will be the turning peg, take the loop off the turning peg and make a U-wrap on the turning peg with the WY, then put the existing stitch back on the turning peg. This leaves 2 loops on the turning peg, which will not be KO until later.
• All stitches on pegs 1 & 24 (30) are slipped at the beginning of the rows to produce a nice finished edge. The procedure for slipping these pegs is outlined in rows 2 & 3 below. Use the same procedure throughout the pattern when slipping pegs 1 & 24 (30).

Stitch Patterns: garter stitch throughout (knit one row, purl one row)

CO: Starting with peg one and working from left to right, CO 24 (30) pegs. I used the chain cast on method in the hats I made, because it produces a nice even CO; however, you may use any CO you like. This places the WY hanging in front between the last two pegs.

Row 1: With the WY between pegs 24 & 23 (30 & 29), Sl peg 24 (30) and FS all pegs from peg 23 (29) back to peg 1.
Row 2: Sl peg 1 by bringing the WY clockwise around the peg so it is in front of the loom between pegs 1 & 2; P pegs 2-24 (30). PM on peg 12.
Row 3: Sl peg 24 (30) by lifting the loop from the peg and bringing the WY to the front of the loom between pegs 23 & 24 (29 & 30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 3; W&T on peg 2.
Row 4: P pegs 3-24 (30).
Row 5: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 4; W&T on peg 3.
Row 6: P pegs 4-24 (30).
Row 7: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 5; W&T on peg 4.
Row 8: P pegs 5-24 (30).
Row 9: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 6; W&T on peg 5.
Row 10: P pegs 6-24 (30).
Row 11: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 7; W&T on peg 6.
Row 12: P pegs 7-24 (30).
Row 13: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 8; W&T on peg 7.
Row 14: P pegs 8-24 (30).
Row 15: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 9; W&T on peg 8.
Row 16: P pegs 9-24 (30).
Row 17: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 10; W&T on peg 9.
Row 18: P pegs 10-24 (30).
Row 19: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 11; W&T on peg 10.
Row 20: P pegs 11-24 (30).
Row 21: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 12; W&T on peg 11.
Row 22: P pegs 12-24 (30).
Row 23: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 13; W&T on peg 12. This is where your marker was placed and indicated the last peg that you W&T.
Row 24: P pegs 13-24 (30).
Row 25: Sl peg 24 (30); FS pegs 23 (29) back to peg 1. You will be knitting two loops over one on the double wrapped pegs 12-1.
Row 26: Sl peg 1; P pegs 3-24 (30).

This completes one wedge. Repeat Rows 1-26 until six (or desired number of wedges have been completed. After completing the last wedge, sl peg 24 (30) and FS back to peg 1 to prepare for BO.

If you are using the Kitchener Stitch to graft the beginning and ending edges together, skip to the Finishing section below. I used the Kitchener Stitch on the shorter hat and an over sewing technique for garter stitch on the longer hat. If you are not using the Kitchener Stitch to graft the edges, you will need to work the flat panel BO method, as follows:
1. Sl peg 1; EW peg 2 & KO.
2. Lift the loop from peg 2 and place it on peg 1; KO.
3. Lift the loop from peg 1 and place it back on peg 2. This completes one BO st.
4. Repeat the same procedure in steps 1-3 for the remaining pegs. Note: It is important to work loosely so the BO edge and the CO edge are the same length.
5. After completing the last BO st, pull the WY through the last loop and tie off. Cut the WY leaving a long yarn tail (approximately 18 inches).

Finishing:
Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail and using your choice of grafting methods (i.e., over sewing, Mattress or Kitchener stitch) join the CO and BO edges beginning at the brim and work toward the top of the hat. After grafting the CO & BO edges, continue on to close the top edge of the hat, then bring WY to the inside of the hat and tie off. Secure all yarn tails.

The picture on the left shows the top view of the longer version of the hat after grafting the edges and closing the top. The various shades of the Moda Dea Tweedle Dee shaded effect yarn is more pronounced when viewing it from the top. On the shorter version of the hat (pictured on the right), you will notice where the wedges come together toward the top of the hat. This is actually the wrong side of the hat, but I liked the way it looked so it became the outside of hat.

Optional:
The hat can be worn as is; however, it can be dressed up by adding beads, sequins, patches, decorative pins or buttons. I used a leather maple leaf pin that I got when visiting Canada years ago on the short skullcap. On the longer skullcap, I turned the front part of the brim up and secured it with three decorative autumn buttons: two oak leaves and an acorn. Many different looks can be created by using your imagination.

About Designer:

Brenda, a retired educational media/technology specialist, lives in a geodesic dome with her husband, occasional grandchildren, and two spoiled dogs in the West Georgia area. She loves creating loom knitted items using new techniques and sharing them with others. Many of her whimsical designs can be found on her Loom Lore blog.

Contact Brenda.