editorialseason's bountywords of wisdomhow-tospast bountiessupport our sponsorslet's chat

Purchase Past Issue of Magazine in PDF form


Contribute to LKC Mag! Submit your Pattern/Article.


Take our button!

Keeping You in Stitches
by Kathy Norris

 

Lace is timeless. Wraps and shawls are the typical garments fashioned from lace, but let us not forget that the same lace stitches can use used enhance sweaters, afghans, hats, and even socks.

There is nothing mysterious about knitting lace. Simplified, lace is made by combining decreases and yarn-overs to make holes. When decreasing, you must place the loops together in correct order to have a right or left slant, and you have to have the empty peg(s) created when decreasing in the right place within the row to place the “hole” (yarn-over).

Once you have mastered these stitches, lace patterns will flow like magic for you!

The Stitches

YO is the abbreviation for yarn over.

This will create a new stitch that results in a hole. Making a yarn over for the loom knitter is just wrapping (e-wrap) an empty peg. Is that simple or what?

In most lace stitches, the empty peg is created by decreasing. This is where it can get complicated.

K2tog is the abbreviation for knit two stitches together.

This decrease results in a new stitch that slants to the right. To knit two stitches (loops) together, the loop of peg A on right is moved to be on top of peg B on the left.

It does not matter whether you are working a row in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction around the loom; the loop from the peg on the right (peg A) will be on top of the loop from the peg on the left (peg B) in a k2tog.


In looking at this picture, you see that the empty peg is to the right of the k2tog.

This is really convenient if you’re working a row in a clockwise direction on the loom (right to left), and the YO comes before the k2tog. But what if you need the empty peg to the on the other side of the k2tog?

Lift the loop from peg A and hold it (with a crochet hook, spare knitting tool, or with your fingers). Lift loop from peg B and put it onto peg A. Then replace loop you are holding onto the peg so that it is on top. It will look like this

Now the empty peg is to the left of the k2tog.

SSK is the abbreviation for slip, slip, knit.

This results in a new stitch that slants to the left. To make a SSK, the loop of peg B on left is moved to be on top of peg A on the right.

Again, it does not matter whether you are working a row in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction around the loom. The loop from the peg on the left (peg B) will be on top of the loop from the peg on the right (peg A).


The places the empty peg to the left of the SSK. If you need the empty peg for a YO to the right of the SSK peg, lift the loop from peg B and hold it. Move the loop from peg A to the peg to the left; then replace the loop you’re holding on top.


Once you have the empty peg on the correct side of either the k2tog or ssk, you can then move the other loops in the row as needed so that the yo peg (empty peg) is in the correct place according to the row instructions.

SK2P is the abbreviation for slip, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over.

This is a double decrease stitch which means you will be decreasing two stitches. The result is a decrease that is centered over the middle stitch. To work the decrease, you will use three pegs.

First you work a k2tog. Move the loop then knit the two loops together (k2tog).

Move the resulting stitch from the k2tog (peg C) to the slipped stitch (peg A)

It will look like this: and bring the bottom stitch over the top stitch without knitting it. This decrease results in two empty pegs for two yarn-overs.

Once again, it does not matter which direction around the loom you are knitting (clockwise or counter-clockwise).

When a row doesn’t put the decrease immediately next to the empty peg for the YO, you will have to arrange the loops/pegs to create the correct order. An example is the Baby Diamond stitch (below in this column). Row 1 reads “k1, k3, yo, sk2p, yo”. This puts the decrease in between the two YO’s – not possible with the pegs set up in the last picture, right? Some set up of the pegs is necessary.


First set up the “k2tog”. This leaves an empty peg between the “k2tog” and the “sl 1” peg.

Then move the “sl 1” loop to the empty peg.


You now have “YO, sl 1, k2tog” set up in the correct order.


At this point, you would wrap the empty peg for the YO, skip the slipped peg, and knit the k2tog peg.

Place the new stitch formed with the k2tog on top of the peg with the “sl 1” and bring bottom loop (slipped stitch) over top loop without knitting it (as described earlier). This leaves an empty peg for the last YO in row 1.


Whew! That’s a bit of a workout!

Just keep in mind that the re-arrangement of loops might be necessary in order to place the decreases and yo pegs in the correct position (indicated by the row of instructions). If you don’t, you will change the stitch entirely.

Now, let’s knit some lace.


Lace Net
Multiple of 2 stitches

Row 1: K1, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * ending with k1
Row 2: Knit row
Row 3: k2, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end of row
Row 4: Knit row
Repeat rows 1 to 4 for pattern

Vine Lace
Multiple of 9 stitches plus 4

Row 1: Knit row
Row 2: K3, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; repeat from * ending with k1
Row 3: Knit row
Row 4: K2, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; repeat from * ending with k2
Repeat rows 1 to 4 for pattern


Baby Diamond

Multiple of 6 stitches plus 2


Row 1: K1, *k3, yo, sk2p, yo; repeat from * ending with k1
Row 2: Knit row
Row 3: K1, *yo, sk2p, yo, k3; repeat from * ending with k1
Row 4: Knit row
Repeat rows 1 to 4 for pattern

About Author:

Kathy and her family share a home in Southern California with her yarn and bead stash. Her favorite vacation spot is wherever there is a good yarn shop. Her favorite saying is “if it sits still long enough, I can put beads on it." She is the author of “More Knitting Wheel Fashions” (Leisure Arts publication). You can read more about her designs at KathyNorrisDesigns.com

Contact Kathy.

© Copyright 2008, Kathy Norris

 

 

about us | contact us | submission guidelines | faq's | advertising with us

site design by hula-la.com